Buying a Graphics Card

• Mystickskye wrote on 2011-09-08 04:41
  The 6950 is a fair step up from the 460 but for what you specified in the beginning (Dragon Nest), the 460 should be fine. I'm running a single 6950 and even with the highest specs (and some graphics settings tweaking in the CCC) and 1920x1080 res I can get around 80~90fps on DN without full GPU load. You can get a decent 1GB 460 from newegg at about $130~140 (there used to be substantially cheaper versions but they're all gone now) and then get a decent PSU for about $50~60. Less if you're lucky.
  
  If you mean the 6850/460 then I'd opt for the 460 instead. They're generally about the same (comparing their benchmarks is a lot like watching two guys continuously hit each other in the face simultaneously) though in terms of raw performance the 460 tends to mark slightly higher but then the 460 can be massively overclocked with ease which puts it up quite nicely. EVGA's FTW factory overclock performs about 20% better or so than the standard 460 and you can get close to that with a simple OCing guide.
• Paul wrote on 2011-09-08 04:51
  Hmm I see, well lets say I go with the GTX460, I'm assuming "they" are all different? "They" as in I googled and ended up finding multiple graphics cards. Assuming I buy a new PSU, which PSU should I aim for and which of all those graphics card would be most suited?
• Mystickskye wrote on 2011-09-08 05:05
  The various GTXs are "different" but generally the differences aren't something to be too concerned over (especially if you're on a budget). nVidia and ATI don't actually manufacture the cards themselves, they tend to make the GPU chips and have the other companies make the cards so you can get what's basically the same thing from all the different companies and then even have variants within these companies For the most part, it won't make much difference if you get the cheapest one compared to a more expensive one. The guts of them is generally the same. Differences tend to be cooling, clock/shader/mem speeds, added bonuses, features and so forth.
  
  For a PSU, get something that has two 6 pin PCI-E connectors. Try to keep wattage as low as possible (normally I'd give you a more exact number but most of the good PSUs needed are overspecced in terms of wattage anyway so that's become a moot point), try to get better efficiency if your wallet/choices allow it and try to stick to good brands! Off the top of my head, Anetc, Corsair, Seasonic and Silverstone are all good. Rosewill is a popular cheap brand but lacks the quality and efficiency that other more reputed brands tend to have. Make sure you have at least 36 Amps on the 12V rail (or rails) though last I checked the PSUs that match the requirements can do that.
• Paul wrote on 2011-09-08 05:25
  Oh alright, I'll just browse sites for the graphics card then, though as for the PSU, aim for low watt usage? Kinda lost on the 36 Amps / 12V rail thing too.
• Mystickskye wrote on 2011-09-08 05:59
  I'd recommend looking through newegg and buying both gpu and psu from there. Get something low priced that works. IIRC there's a couple of Antec PSUs around the $55 mark that have two 6 pin PCI-E connectors.
  
  As for the PSU amps and rail thing...

  Ac Input
  100-127V~ 50/60Hz, 6A/
  200-240V~, 50/60Hz, 3A
  
  DC Output
  +3.3V 16A Total 110W Max
  +5.08V 15
  +12.0V 16A Total 210W Max
  -12,0V 0.3A
  +5.08Vsb 2.0A
  
  Total 220W MAX

  To use your earlier specs! In the "DC output" section you've got a whole bunch of +xV bits. Each of these are "rails" and along with having their own specific voltage, also have a current and wattage to go with it. This PSU for example would be listed as a 220W psu but the +12V rail is the one that matters most to users and you can see it totals 210W (in some PSUs, the 12V rail's wattage isn't quite so good as the "total" advertised wattage!). Some PSUs further have a "+12V1" and "+12V2", two +12V rails though it won't make much difference whether or not your PSU has two rails or one.
  
  So when you buy a PSU, the thing the average user needs to pay most attention to is the actual wattage on the +12V rail as well as the amperage on it. Again; to use your current PSU as an example your +12V rail whilst getting a decent 210W (considering the "total" 220W) gets 16 amps. Anandtech's benchmark system with a GTX460 pulls 331W and Tomshardware recommends having 36 amps on the 12V rail (if you have two 12V rail then just add the different amperages).
  
  Something like this will do. Got more watts than you'll ever need but it otherwise fits the bill.
• BobYoMeowMeow wrote on 2011-09-08 05:59
  ...
  why you guys recommend such big graphic cards if all he needs to run is Dragon Nest
• Mystickskye wrote on 2011-09-08 06:01
  I'm assuming he wants to run it at max specs (if he was meaning min specs or something then anything modern and cheap will do) in which case in terms of money and value I'd pick the 460. 6950 is right out though.
• BobYoMeowMeow wrote on 2011-09-08 07:40
  the cat maxes dragon nest with a 7 year old graphics card...
• Mystickskye wrote on 2011-09-08 12:28
  I'm thinking we have different ideas of "maxing".
• Fynl wrote on 2011-09-08 19:00
  What do you define as maxing then?
  I can run Dragon Nest with maximum graphics with no lag (no matter how many people are running or what skills they're using) with my card which is worlds below what you're suggesting. It's much cheaper than what you're suggesting, too.
  
  Then again, this is for specifically Dragon Nest as stated in the first post. If the OP now wants a card or DN AND some other games, then of course yours are much better suggestions.
• Yoorah wrote on 2011-09-09 03:21
  I think he defines it as running that at 60+ FPS, at high resolution, possibly with AA and such. x)
  Not that it's necessary, of course.
• Mystickskye wrote on 2011-09-09 10:22
  Definitely not necessary x3 Like I said though if simply "running" is the quandry as opposed to maxing then there's no real need for advice, even my old laptop from 2003 can "run" DN. If someone's asking for advice on a GPU then I'm definitely going to be assuming high spec graphics for that game (especially if it's not say, Crysis or Metro 2033) and I'm definitely going to recommend what I think is one of the best value cards you can get (especially considering the budget). To me, there's no value in buying anything significantly older.
• BobYoMeowMeow wrote on 2011-09-09 10:27

  Quote from Yoorah;582612:

  I think he defines it as running that at 60+ FPS, at high resolution, possibly with AA and such. x)
  Not that it's necessary, of course.

  
  
  the game didnt even have AA options...
  it only had low quality
  or "high quality"
• Mystickskye wrote on 2011-09-09 10:41
  Graphics control panels can enhance/override crappy in game options.